One of the most common questions I get from clients is: After navy and grey, what should my third suit be? While there are a few directions you could take, I often recommend a black suit. It’s an essential addition that elevates your wardrobe with its unmatched versatility and sophistication.

But here’s the key: your black suit should not be a carbon copy of your navy and grey suits. Let’s break down why and how to design a black suit that stands out.

The Role of Navy and Grey Suits

Your navy and grey suits are your workhorses. They’re designed to be timeless and versatile, perfect for everything from business meetings to semi-formal events. Keep these suits classic and understated:

• Jacket: Notch lapel, two-button style.

• Trousers: Flat-front design, with side adjusters if you prefer.

• Details: Minimalist and clean, ensuring they pair well with a variety of shirts and accessories.

With these foundational suits in place, your wardrobe has a solid base. Now it’s time to add something with a bit more formality and flair.

Why a Black Suit?

A black suit is ideal for occasions that demand elegance and presence. Think weddings, funerals, formal evening gatherings, and even black-tie events (with the right styling). It’s the suit that exudes confidence and class when the situation calls for it.

Designing Your Black Suit

Here’s where you can get creative while keeping the overall design formal. Unlike your navy and grey suits, a black suit benefits from a touch of boldness and extra detail.

Skip the Notch Lapel

When it comes to black suits, I recommend avoiding the classic notch lapel. Instead, opt for a peak lapel. The peak lapel adds an element of formality and presence that’s perfect for a black suit. It’s sharper, bolder, and more sophisticated.

Double-Breasted vs. Single-Breasted

There are two excellent directions you can take with a black suit:

1. Double-Breasted Jacket:

   • A six-on-one button configuration (six buttons with one functional) creates a commanding look.

   • The wider peak lapel enhances the boldness and formality.

2. Single-Breasted Jacket:

   • Opt for a one-button design for a sleek, minimalist appearance.

   • Skip the silk details if you want this suit to double as formalwear and a more versatile option.

Fabric Matters

Choose a worsted wool twill fabric. This material is durable, classic, and easy to maintain. It’s designed to withstand years of wear while maintaining its refined appearance. By avoiding silk accents, you can dress this suit up or down as needed.

Styling Your Black Suit

One of the greatest advantages of a well-designed black suit is its adaptability:

• For formal events, pair it with a tuxedo shirt, bow tie, and patent leather shoes.

• For less formal occasions, dress it down with a standard dress shirt and tie or even a turtleneck during colder months.

Trousers: Keeping It Clean

When it comes to trousers, keep things straightforward:

• Flat-front design for a modern, clean silhouette.

• Add cuffs or skip them, depending on your preference.

• Avoid pleats for a sleeker look.

A black suit commands attention and adds a layer of sophistication to your wardrobe. By designing it with a bit more formality and presence than your navy and grey suits, you’ll ensure it stands out while remaining versatile.